The Art of Costume Creation at Coachella: A Behind-the-Scenes Look
As the sun sets over the Palm Springs desert, the Coachella Music and Arts Festival transforms into a vibrant spectacle of sound, light, and fashion. For artists like K-Pop sensation Lisa, Lady Gaga, and Charli XCX, the stakes are high when it comes to their stage attire. The right costume can elevate a performance, create a lasting impression, and even define an artist’s identity. But behind every iconic outfit lies a complex web of creativity, logistics, and, sometimes, wardrobe malfunctions.
The Importance of Backup Plans
When Lisa, a member of the acclaimed group Blackpink and a solo star in her own right, faced a broken corset strap just before meeting fans, it was a reminder of the unpredictable nature of live performances. Genesis Webb, her fashion director, emphasizes the necessity of preparation: "I always put a back-up corset in the Uber with me. It’s the number one rule of styling a music artist: anything can happen." This proactive approach is crucial in an industry where a single misstep can lead to a viral wardrobe malfunction.
Fashion as a Tool for Identity
As artists descend upon Coachella, they bring with them not just music but a carefully curated visual identity. Tomás Mier, a music critic for Rolling Stone, notes that how an artist dresses can be pivotal in establishing or reinventing their persona. For instance, Sabrina Carpenter’s pastel babydoll dresses and big blonde hair during her performance last year helped solidify her status as a pop star. Conversely, a chaotic outfit can lead to online mockery, which can be detrimental to an artist’s career.
The Rise of Emerging Artists
For emerging artists, fashion can be a game-changer. Chappell Roan, who arrived at Coachella as an underground indie singer, left as a newly crowned star thanks to her stunning beaded butterfly suit, commissioned from Jackalope Land. Webb recalls, "Everybody knew who she was after that. People still wear the butterfly outfit as a Halloween costume. That’s how you know you’ve done your job." This transformation illustrates how a single outfit can catapult an artist into the mainstream.
The Time Crunch of Costume Design
Despite the high stakes, the timeline for creating these elaborate costumes is often tight. June Ambrose, a veteran creative director for Missy Elliott, explains that from concept to performance, the process can take as little as three weeks. Ambrose is known for her iconic designs, including Elliott’s inflatable suit from the 1997 video for "The Rain (Supa Dupa Fly)." For Elliott’s upcoming tour, Ambrose is preparing over 250 costumes adorned with half a million rhinestones, all of which will be transported to Coachella in a tractor-trailer.
Costumes as Narrative Devices
Ambrose views costumes as integral to the storytelling of a performance. "We develop the show with a three-act structure. We have a narrative; we have characters," she explains. The costumes not only reflect the energy of Elliott’s music but also serve as memory markers for the audience, embedding the experience in their minds. The challenge, according to Ambrose, is to continually raise the bar and surprise the audience with something they’ve never seen before.
Cultural Moments Through Fashion
Beyoncé’s 2018 Coachella performance is a prime example of using fashion to convey a narrative. Collaborating with stylist Marni Senofonte and designer Olivier Rousteing from Balmain, she presented a powerful visual statement that included references to Egyptian queens and historically black collegiate sororities. Mier notes that Beyoncé "raised the bar in a way no other artist has come close to reaching," showcasing the profound impact of fashion on artistic expression.
Personal Journeys in Costume
For artists like Megan Thee Stallion, fashion serves as a personal narrative thread throughout their performances. Stylist Eric Archibald curated outfits that reflected her evolution from an aspiring rapper to a global superstar. By incorporating pieces from her past alongside custom couture, Archibald creates a visual journey that resonates with the audience. "It’s truly like nothing you’ve ever seen before. It’s gorgeous, and very moving," he shares.
The Physicality of Performance
The physical demands of live performances cannot be understated. Artists often perform for hours, executing intricate dance routines while navigating elaborate stage setups. Hair artist Danielle Priano emphasizes the importance of movement in creating a captivating on-stage look. "They toss it around, they use it to accentuate the choreography. It completes their character on-stage," she explains. The preparation for these looks involves meticulous planning, often requiring months of work to ensure everything is perfect.
The Challenge of Quick Changes
Ambrose’s motto, "always have a solution before there’s a problem," underscores the necessity of quick changes during performances. With a wardrobe crew that can execute transformations in under a minute, the focus is on seamless execution. For Megan Thee Stallion, custom-made cowboy hats and boots were designed to withstand the desert’s harsh conditions while still looking fabulous.
The Balance of Comfort and Style
While comfort is important, many artists prioritize style over ease. Webb notes that for pop stars like Lisa, the discipline required in the K-Pop industry means they are accustomed to the demands of performance. "You ask Lisa how she wants to look, and she can tell you exactly what she wants already," she says. This level of collaboration allows for creative freedom while ensuring the final product aligns with the artist’s vision.
In the world of Coachella, where fashion meets music, the costumes are more than just clothing; they are powerful tools of expression, identity, and storytelling. Each outfit tells a story, and behind every iconic look is a team of dedicated professionals working tirelessly to ensure that the show goes on, no matter what challenges arise.